Down to business – Batch Painting the 28th – Assembly

PENINSULAR-WAR-BRITISH-LINE-INFANTRY-Black-Powder-28mm-Napoleonic-Wars-400680035203With the last two blogs explaining the rules choice and the research that I had done, it was time to start work on the unit itself. The figures that I had ready to paint were Warlord Games British Peninsular Infantry. As you can see, they have the stove pipe shakos that the 28th continued to wear at Waterloo. The only slight problem being that the shako plate on the front is incorrect for the 28th. I had two choices, either sand the incorrect plate off and replace it with the correct style plate or ignore the minor difference. I chose the latter. Even as I type this, my OCD reflex is twitching, but to replace all the shako plates was too much work for this project. I would either have to paint on the correct style three piece plate, model it with, say,  green stuff, or track down a decal set of some sort. There may even be replacement heads available out there. On this occasion, the simple, albeit incorrect solution won the argument.

When it came to the additional rear shako plate, it was a fairly straight forward job to make these diamond shaped plates by cutting an evergreen  strip of 10/000 plasticard into diamonds by simply cutting the strip into small pieces at an angle. With hindsight, I have made these too large and should have used a thinner strip. Once again, my OCD reflex is twitching and I am considering cutting these off and replacing them, even though I have nearly finished painting them! At the moment, I have decided to leave them as they are but it wasn’t until I checked the photos that I realised how big they were. Now, I wanted to be able to see the badges when the figures were on the table and making them oversize would help to show the difference in regiments but maybe I have gone too far….

I could have simply painted the plates on but modelling them gave a crisper edge to the plates than I could have achieved by painting.

28th Assembled and primed

28th Assembled and primed

The picture above shows the unit assembled and primed ready for painting. At this stage, I had also modelled the ensigns with Peninsular style Bicorn. However, after some thought, I did revisit the figures and I have now changed these to Stovepipe heads to match the Mont St Jean reference picture. The officer kept his Bicorn – a bit more artistic licence but officers did tend to make their own choices when it came to uniforms. As far as numbers go, I have made the unit 24 figures strong, the standard number for a Black Powder unit. The unit that I am making is a representation of the 28th, not an accurate ‘scaled down’ man to man depiction. As far as the research goes, there were 557 men in the 28th at Waterloo, a somewhat reduced battalion due to the casualties lost fighting at Quatre Bras on the 16th June. Compare this to the 862 men present in the 1/40th and you can see why it becomes impractical in wargaming to start fussing about the numbers. The battalions fought as units, regardless of numbers.

I will use two figures only for the light company on one flank and another two for the Grenadiers in the other flank company. I occasionally use 28 figures for a battalion. 24 for the main body of troops, upgrading the Grenadier company to 3 or 4 figures and a further 4 ‘detached’ figures from the light company are then used as skirmishers out in front of the battalion. So, although 24 figures are currently on the workbench, don’t be surprised if a further 4 appear in the course of these blog articles!

The figures were all assembled using polystyrene glue for the plastics. Polystyrene glue gives a much better bond when gluing plastic to plastic. I only use super glue on the metal officers and command figures – usually the thick expo super glue which has a bit of ‘fill’ to it and again, will give a better bond. I left the back packs off to make painting easier. It also means that I can prime the figures in grey and the back packs in black to save a bit of time when painting. With a grey primer, I wont bother to paint the trousers, just retouch any overruns. I also find it easier to paint over grey than, say, black.

First batch primed and first colours applied

First batch primed and first colours applied

After a quick clean up to remove any obvious flash missed during assembly, I fix the figures to temporary MDF painting bases using blutack and start applying the paint. I use Vallejo paint almost exclusively to paint my models. Vallejo have a huge range of colours, the quality is generally excellent and value for money is about the best you can get. When it comes to the sequence of painting I tend to work from the ‘inside’ of the figure to the ‘outside’. This means that you can save a bit of time – as you paint the figure, you can tidy up any overruns as you go.

I should also declare at this stage that I will be using Army Painter quick shade to finish the figures. So all that I need to do, is to carefully block paint the correct colours. I know that this is not to everyone’s taste and I will cover the use of ‘Quick shade’ and it’s merits in next weeks entry. So the figures above were first painted with Vallejo 70815 flat flesh for the face and hands. Next up, 70950 flat Black, for the shakos, boots and bayonet scabbards and finally,  70872 Chocolate brown for the muskets and Hair. If you are feeling so inclined, you can of course vary the hair colour! However, I tend to paint the lower ranks all the same and just vary the hair colour when it comes to the Officers, Ensigns & drummers for a bit of a change. Until I get a sponsorship deal from L’Oréal, I don’t think that I will worry too much about it….

On with the next colour

On with the next colours…those rear plates do look big…

The final picture shows the next step in the batch paint process but I’ll pause there and come back next week to explain what colours I have used and the sequence. I’ll also give my thoughts on why the batch painting process works for me – it might help newcomers to Napoleonics start to climb that painting mountain!

If you would like to purchase any of the products used in this article, they are available from my shop and the links are as follows:

Warlord Games Peninsular Infantry

Vallejo Paint

Glues and Adhesives

MDF BASES

Sable Paint Brushes

Evergreen Plastic Strip

STOP PRESS!

We are running a special offer until the end of April2017. Buy a copy of Black powder and get a free box of Peninsular British Line Infantry just click here:

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Researching the Research – Batch painting the 28th Regt.

I mentioned in last weeks blog that as well as deciding on a rules set to work to, it helps to have a theme running through your figure collection. In my case the theme is the British Army at Waterloo. I do not intend to paint every Battalion that was present but I am working towards a decent representation of the units that took part. This means that I have some discipline when it comes to buying and painting units and ensures that I do not go off at a tangent. Well not much…

One of the interesting body of troops that were present at the Battle is the 8th British Brigade of Infantry led by Sir James Kempt. It was part of Pictons 5th Infantry Division and was not only in the thick of the fighting at Waterloo but was heavily engaged at Quatre Bras, two days earlier.

Lady Butlers painting of the 28th at Quatre Bras.

Lady Butlers painting of the 28th at Quatre Bras.

The Brigade is interesting to me because of the mix and variety of troops. It consisted of:

The 28th North Gloucestershire’s; a standard infantry battalion but equipped with stovepipe shakos and with yellow facings.

The 32nd Cornwall Regiment; a standard infantry battalion, Belgic shakos and white facings.

The 79th Cameron Highlanders; a Scottish regiment, green facings and of course, tartan kilts.

Six company’s of the 95th Rifles, the famous Light infantry regiment.

They were supported by the Divisional artillery, including Major Roberts Foot artillery battery of six guns.

I don’t think that you could do much better when choosing a ‘starter’ force for a Black powder army. I have already painted the 32nd Cornwalls – you can read how in these blog entries:

The 32nd ( Cornwall) Regiment of Foot

Soap Opera Painting

The 32nd Foot ready for action

So the next task was to batch paint the 28th North Gloucestershires. As usual, I consulted my favourite research sources, The Waterloo Companion by Mark Adkin, British Napoleonic Uniforms by C.E. Franklin, Ospreys Wellingtons Infantry by Brian Fosten and the most useful Mont St Jeans Website.

The Pictures on the Mont St Jean site are simply excellent to use as a painting guide:

28th North Gloucestershire Regiment Centre Companys

28th North Gloucestershire Regiment Centre Companys

Now the sharp eyed amongst you will have already spotted a discrepancy. Lady Butler has the 28th in Belgiac Shakos, whereas Mont St Jean shows them in Stovepipes – they both couldn’t be correct, could they? My first thought was that perhaps they were light infantry but I was further puzzled by the red and white standard plumes ( I thought that ‘lights’ had all had green plumes) and Shako plates – no bugle to indicate that they were light infantry. That said, the Shako plates were different to most regiments standard one piece large plate. The plot thickened….

It was time to consult the internet once again and to risk diving into the murky world of forums and social media. Those dangerous habitats of armchair painters and armchair generals, button counters and lace pendants, crusty old buggers of immoveable opinions – you get the picture. In fact even as I typed this blog, I thought that I could hear the sound of caps locks on keyboards clicking on like a chorus of safety catches on AK47s….

They were wearing STOVEPIPES!!!!!

They were wearing STOVEPIPES!!!!!

Of course I jest… just a bit.  I am actually in awe of the expertise found on the forums and generally this expertise is passed on with good grace and even better, with links back to the primary references. My usual port of call is the TMP, The Miniatures page, and the search facility can reveal some fascinating information from some very knowledgeable people. So what did I find out? Well, it seems as though the 28th had a number of differences from the ‘standard’ infantry battalion. The Shako plate was indeed as shown above and not a one piece item. In addition, there was a small plate on the rear of the Shako, awarded after the battle of Alexandria in Egypt 1801, when the front and rear ranks of the 28th were simultaneously engaged, whereby the soldiers received the order “Front rank stay as you are, rear rank about turn”. The conduct of the regiment won for it the distinction of wearing badges both at the front and at the back of their head-dress.

Bottom picture shows rear cap badge and French style Knapsack

Bottom picture shows rear cap badge and French style Knapsack

And so to the head dress. It seems that the 28th were still in possession of their Stovepipe shakos at Waterloo, although this is by no means a sure thing. Lady Butler seems to think that they wore belgiac shakos and there is at least one contemporary account that confirms this. However, there are other accounts and sketches that indicate that they definitely had stovepipes and that these were also worn by the Officers. Who knows what is really correct? I tend to go with the idea that the shakos were stovepipes based on what I have read but I am acutely aware that what I am reading is someone else’s edited research. After all said and done though, I am painting a unit to be used on the wargames table not an exhibit in a museum, so I am happy to go with the more interesting option.

28th with Trotter Knapsack....

28th with Trotter Knapsack….

The other piece of information that I turned up was that the 28th used French Knapsacks rather than the standard British Trotter knapsack. Once again, I have read conflicting evidence. One account claimed that all men in the Battalion had the French version. Another, claimed that it was just the Grenadier company. Both stories seem to come from an account stemming yet again from the Egyptian Campaign.  It is said that the 28th ‘liberated’ a French supply depot containing the superior French Knapsacks which they then adopted as their own. It strikes me that the chances of these knapsacks lasting for nearly 15 years in service, with men coming and going, are remote but I have no knowledge of how long a knapsack would last… Finally, just to add to the controversy, I have read that the whole ‘knapsack story’ was made up by a Victorian writer.

What is for sure is that the Battalion is an interesting subject with some good opportunities for some artistic licence in both modelling and painting.  I’m happy to incorporate some of these idiosyncrasies into my battalion and I’ll show you my interpretation in my next blog.

 

 

Why are you still playing Black Powder?

Redcoats!

Redcoats!

I had intended to write an updated guide to batch painting British Napoleonic figures based around my latest project, the 28th North Gloucestershire Regiment. I’ve even gone so far as to make some step by step videos that I hope to post. However, rather than jump right in to the painting, I thought that I would first give some context and background to my project. I’ve been prompted by the number of questions that constantly appear on the social media feeds and forums that I subscribe to, as much as anything else and I hope that the series of posts will be useful to newcomers to the hobby.

I think that veterans in the hobby forget just how difficult and daunting it is for newcomers to get into this strange hobby of collecting and painting Napoleonic figures, or for that matter, any period of history. There is so much material out there and whilst the internet makes it easier to access this material, there is a lot of conflicting advice and some very forthright views that can be counter productive. I hope that the following helps although I am conscious that I am just adding my own forthright views to the mix!

To be clear, I have decided that I am painting and collecting 28mm war games figures to be used primarily to ‘play’ wargames with my friends using Black Powder rules. So before you even buy a pack of figures you need to decide what scale figures you are going to use and what rules set you will use. A good place to start would be to talk to the people that you intend to wargame with and see what rules sets they are using.

BLACK-POWDER-rules-for-Wargames-from-WARLORD-games-400569960224

Why Black Powder?

When I first came back to the historical side of the hobby, following a long period spent playing Sci Fi games, I was looking for a rules set that I could easily learn and play. I actually started with Sharp Practice version one. This had two attractions. First of all you don’t need that many figures to start gaming. Indeed, I started with just 24 Victrix figures. Most importantly, there were a couple of guys at the local club who were playing Sharp practice and they helped to explain the rules and provide some extra figures when I needed them. Additionally, the rules had a certain charm, humour and playability about them that resulted in a great game, time after time.

Stand fast the 27th

Stand fast the 27th

However, as my army grew, I was looking for something that would allow me to field a brigade or division. Black powder happened to be published at that time. It was and still is, one of the best looking rules sets out there. It was also easily readable and obviously designed for the joy of playing rather than simply trying to recreate every drill tactic and nuance of the Napoleonic era. In fact, it’s not even a rule set specifically set in the Napoleonic era, more of a general guide to playing war games in the whole of the ‘Black powder’ era. Brilliant! I would only need to learn one basic set of rules and I could be gaming the AWI or fighting Zulus a hundred or so years later. Even better, it was co written by Rick Priestly and Jervis Johnson and those two know more than a thing or two about not only how to write a rules set but also how to set the right tone.

We are playing a game!

In a recent blog I mentioned that I was part of a demonstration game at a Napoleonic Day in, of all places, Bingham. Most of the people that visited were ‘non wargamers’ and were fascinated by the spectacle of so many model soldiers on the table. The game was very loosely based on the Battle of Quatre Bras and most of the figures were representative of the combatants present during the battle. That is about as close as I have come to refighting a historical battle. Most of the games that I play are at the White Hart pub on a reasonably sized table, covered in a battlemat with a few bits of scenery placed around. Occasionally, we set up a scenario, a river crossing or delayed deployment of troops being the two easiest but rarely is the game based on a real battle.

The Quatre Bras Demo game

The Quatre Bras Demo game

Back to the Demo game. The visitors were intrigued to know just what we were doing. We replied ‘we’re playing a game with Napoleonic soldiers representing the playing pieces’. I don’t think that they believed us. They wanted it to be more serious than that. Some of them eventually got it. This was a group of friends enjoying each others company whilst playing with toy soldiers set in an historical context. That’s all it needs to be. If you want a competitive tournament game, there are much better rules sets out there. If you are looking to recreate the minutiae of detail of what may have actually happened in a battle, you may be better off joining a re enactment group. That way you get to trudge around the fields & mud for real. The good news is that you wont get shot…

However, the Black Powder rules provide you with a great introduction to Historical wargaming with simple rules to learn and an emphasis on enjoying the game.

Table top General directs his troops!

Table top General directs his troops!

Next Question…

Once you have decided on a rules set, some of the decisions are then made for you.  What scale of figures do I use? Black powder is designed for 28mm but will work with most scales including 1/72nd scale or 15mm. I like 28mm scale. There’s a fantastic range and choice of figures out there in 28mm, both in plastic and metal. If you prefer something else, go for it. Again, I suspect that you will need to consult with your existing or prospective gaming buddies. If they are already using 20mm figures it makes sense to join them. But, I don’t think that you will go far wrong with 28mm.

Basing is a thorny subject – but guidance appears in the rules and I’ll pass on my advice in this series of articles later.

So, how many  figures do you need in a unit? Again, the answer is in the rules set. A normal unit is 24 figures but this isn’t as rigid as you may think. We often use half sized units to play big games on smaller tables. The only important issue is that there should be some parity with your opponent. I’ll pass on my thoughts on this in a later blog when I cover basing.

Load Canister!

Load Canister!

The really BIG question!

What army are you going to build? To a certain extent this is the most difficult decision that you may have to make. Are you going to be collecting British, French, Austrian, Russian, Prussian, or one of the myriad of other Napoleonic states that were involved in the conflict. This decision is further complicated by having then to choose a campaign period. In my opinion, as far as the wargaming goes, it doesn’t matter. We happily play games where Pennisular British fight Waterloo Prussians. We have even had a Mexican unit on the table!

It’s a difficult decision, because once you have committed, you will be painting an army and that will be a long term project. To be fair, there’s no reason why you cant have a pick & mix army with a unit from every nation. However, when it comes to research and collecting an army, I think that it will help if you have a common thread running through it. You don’t have to pick the ‘best’ army either. For many years of the Napoleonic period, the French were in the ascendancy and could beat all comers. At the other end of the scale, the Spanish Army, although potent on their day, don’t enjoy the same reputation in battle – they do have some lovely uniforms though! The beauty of Black powder is that the rules aren’t precious about this. There are some optional rules that you can give certain qualities one to army over another but there is nothing to stop you playing a ‘vanilla’ rules game where Spanish troops happily face, say, Russians on equal terms. Not realistic? It doesn’t bother me. As I keep repeating, the wargame is the social side of the hobby. It’s the chance to get those lovingly painted troops onto the table and see if the dice are kind enough to let you win a battle.

Charge!

Charge!

In conclusion

If you are looking to start collecting and painting troops to wargame in the Napoleonic period, my advice is to start with the Black powder rules set. That is what my wargaming army is based on and whenever I start to paint a new unit, it is with these rules in mind. It means that I am clear about how many figures I need to make a unit, how to base them and what they will do in the game. Next week, I’ll explain how I research how to paint my figures. Regardless of which rules set that you do choose, I hope that you enjoy your gaming with your buddies as much as I do!

Incidentally, the pictures used in this blog were supplied by Wargames Illustrated. The figures are from my own collection and they will feature in issue 345, the theme being Wellington and the Napoleonic period. Which leads me to an after thought. I’m a great fan of Wargames Illustrated (and was long before they accepted my article) – if you are thinking of entering the hobby, go and get yourself a copy of the magazine! it’s a great way to get an overview of what is happening in the hobby and I still think that the physical magazine is better than flicking through the interweb!

You can get your copy of Black Powder Here:

BLACK POWDER

You can get the Waterloo starter set here:

Waterloo Starter Set

You can get Wargames Illustrated magazine here:

War Games Illustrated

Belgium 1815: The Battle for the Crossroads

British napoleonic uniform

British Napoleonic uniform on display at the show.

I’ve mentioned before that I believe that some of the smaller shows for wargamers can be more enjoyable than some of the traditional war games shows that we all know. The latest example being the Napoleonic Day held in my home town of Bingham in Nottinghamshire. It was organised by the writer, Peter Youlds, and was focused on the Napoleonic period. To be fair, it wasn’t the usual wargames show, packed full of demonstration games and Traders but a small scale celebration of the Napoleonic period by like minded individuals. In fact, the only real pressure to buy anything was from the ‘Corsican Cafe’ that had been set up for the day. The home cooked bacon cobs and homemade cakes were just too tempting to avoid.

Belgic and Stovepipe shakos

Belgic and Stovepipe shakos

The other goodies on offer were a selection of books (most of them signed copies) from the attending authors, Peter Youlds, Andrew Bamford, Carole Divall, and Micheal Kirby and some very nice original prints and paintings from the Napoleonic artist Chris Draper. In addition, a contingent from the 21st Regiment de Ligne re-enactors were on duty, as well as regency dress expert Laura Short. To round things off, Myself, Andy Callan ( of Paper Soldiers fame) and Pete Harris were running a demonstration war game, using Black powder Rules, loosely based on the Battle of Quatre Bras. There was also a series of talks throughout the day, from the various experts and authors, focusing on the Napoleonic era. The cost of entrance to this event – nothing! Yes, the whole day, including attendance of any of the lectures and access to all of that expertise was free.

A fine example of Regency costume

A fine example of Regency costume

Belgium 1815: The Battle for the Crossroads

The demonstration game was based loosely on the battle of Quatre Bras. The scenario involved  a combined force of Dutch -Belgian and Brunswick troops holding a crossroads against a French advance force. The French and Allied forces would both receive reinforcements as the battle progressed. The game spanned most of the day but the slow pace was mainly due to the number of questions that we were answering from the public, many of whom had never seen a wargame before. I’ll perhaps revisit some of the comments and reflect on the nature of our hobby in another blog, as it was fascinating to hear how the ‘public’ perceived this strange past time of ours. In the meantime, here is a brief account of the battle. The report is somewhat picture heavy. As usual, as I was playing, it was difficult to make notes and take pictures at the key times. You should get a general idea of the battle though.

The deployment before the battle

The deployment before the battle

The initial turns saw a French steady advance towards the centre, held by the Brunswickers and Dutch brigades. A French Cavalry probe on the left was easily seen off by the Brunswick Lancers, although in truth, both sides were somewhat mauled. On the right, the French advanced cautiously along the main Brussels – Charleroi road between the farm house and the woods. They were harassed by the fire from a small contingent of Jager who had taken cover in the farm house.

The Brunswick Brigade prepare for battle

The Brunswick Brigade prepare for battle

The British encampment at the edge of the Bossu wood

The British encampment at the edge of the Bossu wood

Initially, it was the French reinforcements that arrived on the Battlefield, adding to the pressure in the Centre and again threatening the Left with their Calvary. Perhaps somewhat disheartened by the previous skirmish, the French cavalry refused to move and any threat to the Brunswick infantry was averted for the time being. More of a puzzle was the French cavalry’s’ reluctance to cross the stream and try to take the longer route around the pond… They clearly didn’t want to get their boots wet! On the right, The Belgians were more than holding their position and actually saw off a Battalion of French infantry with superior musketry. The Allies were gaining the upper hand.

Belgians Advance!

Belgians Advance!

Brunswickers hold steady, whilst the French Cavalry are waiting to pounce!

Brunswickers hold steady, whilst the French Cavalry are waiting to pounce!

French pressure in the centre continued to grow as more reinforcements made their way to the front. Despite this, the Allied line appeared to be holding well and the first British reinforcements were appearing from Brussels along the main road. Even better, the French on the right crumbled under fire and the whole brigade broke, leaving the right wing free for an Allied advance. The battle was going well for the Allies, victory was in sight!

The Belgians clash with the French!

The Belgians clash with the French!

British Reinforcements are arriving from Brussels.

British Reinforcements are arriving from Brussels.

Th French are pushed back on the Charloi road but the first hint of trouble - the farm house has fallen!

The French are pushed back on the Charloi road but the first hint of trouble – the farm house has fallen!

Now at this point, The Allied General (me) appeared to have lost the plot. Somewhat distracted by questions from the public and the thought of what cake to eat next, I failed to exploit the advantage gained on the right flank and actually helped to shore up the French position by forcing the retreating infantry into square, thereby anchoring them on the battlefield. At the same time, the French Generals’ (Pete Harris) persistence and greater tactical awareness paid off. Spotting a weakness in the Allied line, the French bravely charged a Brunswick Artillery battery, routing it from the table and breaking the Allied line.

French pressure has forced the Dutch & brunswickers back from the stream.

French pressure has forced the Dutch & brunswickers back from the stream.

Congestion on the Brussels - Charleroi road as more British reinforcements arrive.

Congestion on the Brussels – Charleroi road as more British reinforcements arrive.

Continued French pressure forces the Allies back.

Continued French pressure forces the Allies back.

As if this wasn’t enough, The French Cavalry on the left charged en mass, breaking the allied cavalry and pushing them off of the battlefield. The Allied advantage on the right was further diminished as the French had forced the Jagers  out of the farm house and had occupied it themselves with a full battalion! Suddenly the Allies were on the back foot. The saving grace was that a steady stream of British reinforcements were now arriving from Brussels. There was now a major traffic jam at the crossroads as the British tried to deploy. Fortunately, the remains of the Brunswick and Dutch contingent, bolstered by a Hanoverian Brigade were able to delay the French long enough for the British Infantry to begin to get into position along the road and form a new defensive line.

The Hanoverians halt the french advance on the crossroads buying time for the Allies.

The Hanoverians halt the French advance on the crossroads buying time for the Allies.

French Cavalry now dominate the left wing!

French Cavalry now dominate the left wing!

The British form a new defensive line along the Nivelles-Namur Road

The British form a new defensive line along the Nivelles-Namur Road

As nightfall approached, the British had managed to secure the crossroads and despite being pushed back they had inflicted sufficient casualties on the French to stem their advance. However, it was the French that had had the better day. They had severely mauled the Allied army and pushed them back to the crossroads. They now held the majority of the field and could further harass the Allies withdrawal to Waterloo!

The French hold the battlefield but are exhausted after beating back the Allies.

The French hold the battlefield but are exhausted after beating back the Allies.

All in all, thoroughly enjoyable battle where the French gained boasting rights and Pete Harris proved to be a better General than Ney. Unfortunateky, I didn’t quite manage to live up to Wellingtons standards! Of course, the unsung hero of the day was Andy Callan, who put so much into organising and running the battle whilst keeping our visitors so well informed. I hope that the guests had as much fun as we did.

Once again, our thanks to Peter Youlds who organised the day and I look forward to the next one.

Cazadores follow up.

The finished set of cazadores.

The finished set of cazadores.

After completing my first ‘test shot’ with the cazadores, I have now finished the pack of 8 metal Cazadores figures from Warlord games. I decided to keep to my original plan of block paint and quick shade rather than painting in the 3 colour shade, midtone and highlight that is often used. In the main, I am painting for the wargames table and I am attempting to build units rather than finish individual figures to a high standard.  So the quick shade method for my rank and file troops works very well both in terms of time spent and results.

These kneeling Cazadores are my favourites from the pack!

These kneeling Cazadores are my favourites from the pack!

I am very impressed with the sculpts of the figures in the warlord set. The troops in the kneeling poses are particularly good and I could see them forming a nice little vignette if painted and based nicely. It also became apparent to me that a lot of thought had gone into making these figures. It hadn’t been immediately clear that in fact warlord had supplied four figures with muskets and four with baker rifles in the pack. It was only when I came to paint them that I realised the differences in the figures.  The models with Baker rifles have the powder flask and the additional cartridge pouch on their belts. They also are carrying the sword bayonet and the strap work is slightly different.  Of course the real give away was the Baker rifle itself. Very nicely modelled with the brass plate in the stock and slightly shorter than the muskets.

Skirmishing in cover.

Skirmishing in cover.

And so after praising just how good these models are, a bit of a moan. Why don’t Warlord explain exactly what is in the blister? Now I know that it is impractical to include painting instructions and detail regarding the equipment within the blister itself but why not have the information on the web site. Somebody in Warlord has gone to a great deal of trouble to research these models before they were sculpted. Furthermore, the figures have been superbly painted for the web site – the painter has obviously done his research. Could that not be added either to the pack description on the website or in the form of a short article linked to the web page? To be fair, Warlord are no worse in this respect and better than most other manufacturers when it comes to packaging and selling their metal figures but I hope it is something that perhaps they could look at.

Cazadore skirmish line

Cazadore skirmish line

I followed up on some of the improvements that I noted in my last article and I am a bit happier with the results. Of course, the figures always look better when based properly. I have filed off the number on the shako and replaced the sculpted five with a painted seven as my ‘men’ are from the 7th battalion. As I thought, the shoulder straps should be brown with black piping. I have also painted the black piping around the cuffs to make this stand out. The yellow cuffs have been a problem. Yellow is a very difficult colour as the paint tends to be under pigmented. I used a sand undercoat and then painted the yellow over. To be fair, although it isn’t as bright as I would like for the wargames table, it is probably accurate on a soldiers uniform that has seen a bit of service!

Cazadores advance!

Cazadores advance!

I have also painted the plumes of the figures with muskets in green and the ones carrying the Baker rifles, the elite Tiradores, in black. There is some confusion on my part as to what colour the epaulette’s should be. Certainly before 1810 they would match the plumes and so in the main be green. However, the Osprey book has put doubt in my mind as to whether that was true after 1810 for the new battalions. So after painting some green I just reverted to all black and repainted them. I’m not sure that it shows…

They've all got black epaulettes!

They’ve all got black epaulettes!

I also painted the cord for the powder horn in white. I dont think that this is accurate but it helps to define the riflemen from the musketeers and adds a bit of detail to the figures. I know, after all the research to get things right why deliberately be inaccurate. I like to think of it as artistic licence but I know that it will annoy the purists!

With the first 8 figures complete, there is an Officer and Bugler still on the work bench to add to the unit. That will give me in wargaming terms a ‘small unit’, ideal for skirmishing and harrying the enemy. I think that I will build the full battalion of 24 figures in time. I will need another baker rifle armed Tiradore and the rest will need to be musketeers or command to get the ratios approximately right. That said, I’m in no rush and if something catches my eye, I can always expand the unit in the future. For all of my initial misgivings about the drab uniform, I actually quite enjoyed painting them.

To see my previous article with details of the paints used, click here:

Cazadores Test Shot

If you would like to buy some of your own Cazadores, they are only available direct from the warlord site here:

Portuguese Cacadores

Cazadores Test Shot

Having now finished my Portuguese Line Infantry Brigade, I thought that I would add some Cazadores to act as skirmishers. Warlord games make quite a nice pack with a separate officer and bugler also available. My Line infantry regiments were the 11th and 23rd, so a quick check showed that it was the 7th Regiment of Cazadores that were often brigaded with them in battle and they certainly fought together at Salamanca. So painting a few Cazadores shouldn’t take too long.

Before, I go any further, I apologise for the incorrect spelling of Cazadores. I can’t get my computer keyboard to produce the Spanish soft ‘C’ symbol!

Osprey Portuguese Army part 2

Osprey Portuguese Army part 2

Some quick research using my Osprey ‘Portuguese Army of the Napoleonic Wars part 2’ confirmed that the 7th regiment was formed after July 1811, when the number of Cazadore regiments was doubled. The uniforms were dark brown jacket and trousers with black cords and black buttons. Equipment was as the usual infantry kit except that the belts were black rather than white. Facings varied by regiment. The 7th is shown as having black collars with yellow cuffs. The Picture on the cover of the book is close enough – the 6th regiment shown, having a yellow collar rather than black.

Wargames_Illustrated_277

Wargames_Illustrated_277

There is also a very good article in WI issue 277 from November 2010. If you haven’t got this back copy, it is now OOP. However, if you do subscribe to WI, the content is available in the ‘vault’. This article was helpful with the history and structure of the Cazadores Battalions. Of interest to me was that 4 companies in a battalion were armed with Brown Bess Muskets, only one with the deadlier Baker rifle. Furthermore, it was this elite company that had black epaulets and plume as opposed to the other 4 companies that were green.

In truth, I really need to do some more research, and think about how I would depict the troops on the wargames table. The problem was I was itching to get on and paint the figures that I had on the workbench. I decided to clean them up and undercoat them and then paint just one as a test figure. I was also undecided whether to go for a quick paint and dip job or to put some extra work in.

first cazadore painted as a test.

first cazadore painted as a test.

As it was, the quick paint and dip job won for now! I sprayed the unit in Army Painter Leather Brown. I decided to use Vallejo dark flesh for the skin – it’s hot in Portugal!  Then it was simply black for the straps etc, Iraqi sand for the food bag, pastel blue for the water bottle and Flat Yellow for the cuffs. I didn’t even bother to repaint the brown undercoat, just retouched it with Flat Earth where I had been careless. The final touches included, brass for the belt plates & other detail, steel for the musket and I used Leather Brown for the water bottle strap and Chocolate Brown for the Musket woodwork.

The model was then painted with Army painter Dark tone quick shade and when dry, sprayed with the Army Painter anti shine. To be honest, I’m not sure whether I’m happy with the finish or not. It all looks… well… a bit drab and brown! The picture of the figure in a more scenic setting helps.

Cazadore advances through cover.

Cazadore advances through cover.

There’s a couple of things that I think that I need to look at though. First of all, as the uniform is so drab that the face needs to be painted properly with a bit more attention to bringing out the detail. I also think that the black needs a gentle highlight on the edges of the equipment. The figure also needs another coat of matt spray – I tend to be careful and under use the matt spray as it can be so temperamental. Oh! and another thing – the plate on the front of the helmet should show the Regiment number. It’s been sculpted as a bit of a squiggle. I might just file this off and repaint a 7 in the correct place. The cuffs could do with a clearer black line to represent the piping and the yellow could be brighter. Finally, I think that I have painted the shoulder straps incorrectly in black when they should have been left as brown with black piping…

Perhaps, this wont be a quick job after all.

Napoleonic Saga?

The joy of wargaming with friends is that every now and then, someone comes up with an idea that you, yourself would have just dismissed as crazy. So when Duncan said that he wanted to do a Napoleonic version of Saga, I was a bit sceptical that it would work. There are already enough Napoleonic Skirmish games out there, why do another?

But before we get to that, perhaps a bit of back ground. I’m lucky enough to be wargaming each week with a group of great group of friends at a local pub. I suppose that we are a club, there’s no subs or secretary or chairman or anything like that. We just meet at the pub for a meal and then get on with the gaming. The pub, the White Hart, very kindly allows us to use their function room for free, so long as we have a meal & a couple of drinks. A great arrangement for both parties!

The nearest thing to formality is the gathering at the end of the evening when we have a brief discussion about who’s playing what next week. This spirit of informality also extends to the way that we play our games. We are happy to tinker with rules sets so that they play to our liking and are more interested in enjoying the game than worrying too much about the rules. ( we have our moments though…)

An Intro game of Black Powder for a new member at the club

An Intro game of Black Powder for a new member at the club

We tend to play a lot of Black powder, all of us having large Napoleonic armies built over the last few years. However, we also alternate with other rules sets and tend to use skirmish rules sets to explore new periods or perhaps give us an excuse to paint yet more models! At the moment, one of the rules sets that we are trying out is ‘The Men Who Would be Kings’. Its’s written by Dan Mersey and based on the ‘Lion Rampant’ rules engine. So far we have had a good deal of fun with these rules – here’s the latest game at the club.

This weeks set up for the Men Who Would be Kings

This weeks set up for the Men Who Would be Kings

And so back to Napoleonic Saga. I asked Duncan why go down this route when there were already so many good skirmish games out there, Sharpe Practice and Muskets and Tomahawks to name but two.  The answer was that he wanted to create some rules for the ‘small revolutionary wars’ that took place as part of the wider Napoleonic conflict but give them their own flavour. A skirmish type game would give people the chance to build smaller armies but the Saga boards idea would be a way of introducing unique qualities or ‘flavour’ to the particular protagonists.

A British force observes the Itish Rebels as they advance!

A British force observes the Irish Rebels as they advance!

The Irish uprising of 1798 being a case in point. Not everyone would want to build a huge Irish Army or British Militia and refight the Battle of Castle Bar or even the Battle of Arklow , as featured in Wargames Illustrated issue 319, now sadly out of print. However, a smaller game would allow scope to build and paint a few typical units and refight some of the smaller skirmishes or simply enjoy gaming with the particular units of that conflict.

With this in mind Duncan put together a set of embryonic rules. Now these rules will possibly  feature in a future Wargames Illustrated release, so I can only give you a flavour of the game here. As with Saga, you will use your points to purchase a small mixed force of Regulars (Hearth guard) Militia (warriors) or ‘Local rebels’ and support units (Levy) and these in turn will generate the Saga dice for your army. The Commanders (warlords) have a slightly different function as they will not get so involved in the actual fighting as a Viking warlord might! They are key to keeping your force moving, rallying, if fatigued and of course encouraging them in battle!

Contact! The Irish Pikes Block charges the British line.

Contact! The Irish Pikes Block charges the British line.

As usual with Saga, the limited number of Saga dice mean that you have to decide which units that you will activate and whether you will use any special abilities on the Saga board. The Saga boards for our game were still not quite complete but I can tell you that the abilities are fairly straight forward and down to earth, giving your units an edge in a particular aspect of combat. What is clever is that they are based on specific quotes or events from the Irish uprising.

Dragoons impetously charge a Pike block!

Dragoons impetuously charge a Pike block!

Movement and shooting is very similar to the original Saga rules set, with fixed Long, Medium, Short and Very Short distances being used for both movement and to modify firing effectiveness. Fatigue also played it’s part as a measure of a units morale. The game played surprisingly well for a first outing and copious notes were made for the next play test. It was the Irish rebels that won the day – their more numerous pikemen overrunning the Government troops. Duncan has much work to do before bringing a full set to publication but the good news is that if it works with the Irish, the game can be adapted to other areas with new battle boards for say, the Chouans and Vendee rebellion or may be at last I will get my Caribbean game…

If you are interested in purchasing any of the rules sets mentioned above, Arcane Scenery has a comprehensive selection in our shop here:

Rules for Wargaming

We currently post free to most worldwide locations.

So, Where was I…?

Christmas and the New Year Holidays have come and gone and despite succumbing to the current version of ‘Man Flu’ that is doing the rounds, I have made some progess with my various projects. This blog entry is really a round up of some of these, with a few photographs to show the state of play and to clear my mind for the next round of painting and gaming.

My Portuguese Brigade is taking shape.

My Portuguese Brigade is taking shape.

First up those pesky Portuguese! Well not really pesky but in committing to paint a full brigade of these troops, they have dominated my painting desk for the last couple of months. I am now at the stage where I have completed 72 figures, or three battalions with a further 12 just needing to be based and the final 12 halfway through painting.

The final 12 figures are on the painting desk.

The final 12 figures are on the painting desk.

I shouldn’t really be too hard on myself in terms of progress. I am about a week away from completing 96 figures. In addition to that I have painted two mounted officers, giving me a total of 98 new figures for my collection. On reflection, not a bad achievement as I now have a core for a future Peninsular Army.

Officer commanding the 11th Line Regiment

Officer commanding the 11th Line Regiment

If you have missed previous blog articles on how and why I have chosen this Brigade please follow this link back to the last article, which does explain how I decided to construct the units in the brigade.

Officer commanding the 23rd Line Regiment

Officer commanding the 23rd Line Regiment

You will notice that I have added some British Officers as they were often attached to the Portuguese Battalions. There is also a couple of Sappers. I have used a bit of licence when it comes to the two Sappers in the Brigade. The only reference that I could find for these came from a picture that I found on Pinterest. To visit my Portuguese pinterest board, click on this link.

Command section, 11th Penamacor Regiment.

Command section, 11th Penamacor Regiment.

I have already prepared the next part of the Portuguese project, another 10 Cacadores to use as Skirmishers. The good news is that they have brown uniforms, so I can take a break from painting blue for a while.

Cacadores ready for priming

Cacadores ready for priming

All the figures are from Warlord games with the exception of a few of the Portuguese line infantry & command , which are Victrix metals, now available I think, from Brigade games in the States.

28th North Gloucestershires ready for painting!

28th North Gloucestershires ready for painting!

Also lurking in the back ground is a prepared and primed Battalion of British infantry for the Waterloo period – they will be the next in the queue after the Cacadores but I am going to try a slightly different approach to painting this unit. I will still complete them as a batch paint job but rather than get bogged down with another long project, I intend to ‘dip in and out’ of painting these whilst getting on with some other less time consuming subjects.

Saga Bases textured

Saga Bases textured

My other project that is now complete is my Irish Saga war band. I had been playing with using some simple Saga movement trays and finally got to texturing these to help them blend in with the figure bases. It was one of those small jobs that kept getting put to one side but well worth the 10 minutes or so that it took. I think that I may well gradually move all of my Saga Warbands into these, if nothing else than to make transporting them easier. The texturing was simply done using my favourite Vallejo Dark Earth Paste, painted & dry brushed with a chocolate brown/Iraqi Sand mix and some green scatter added on top.

Sarissa Precision Grain Store

Sarissa Precision Grain Store

I’ve also finished another Sarissa Precision Dark Age Building – the grain store. I’ve added some extra details using match sticks and the Vallejo dark earth paste as ‘daube’. I have covered how I detailed the Sarissa buildings in a previous post and to read more, click here. I now have four buildings for my Saga settlement.

Trent Miniatures Sherry Casks

Trent Miniatures Sherry Casks

And so that pretty much brings me up to date. The only other small project on the go is to finish painting a set of Sherry casks from Trent Miniatures. To be honest, I’m not sure what I intend to do with these. I just thought that they were nice replicas and I fancied having a go at trying some new techniques in painting wood, so they are a bit of an experiment. It is this sort of project that I hope to shoe-horn in between painting some of the larger units that I would like to complete my Napoleonic collection.

I am off to play my first Black powder game of the year tonight, so I am now fully back into the swing of my hobby. If the coming year is as productive as last year, it will be a fun year!

O.C.D? – No, just organised.

Good grief! What happened to November? I was supposed to have finished my Portuguese brigade by now. As usual, life has got in the way, and as we approach the ‘Season to be Jolly’ there is less opportunity to sneak off to the garage and get some painting done. I guess the clue to my progress has been in my blog – no pictures of Portuguese in the last few posts. Mind you, I have had some good wargames with my friends and as I will show you, I have nearly finished the complete regiment of the 23rd Portuguese line infantry.

In the meantime, chaos theory has proved it’s existence in my games room (garage) and the amount of stuff lying around is preventing me from actually using my gaming table. Quite how it all got there is a mystery. It was time for a tidy up again. I find that too much clutter is just a distraction. The first task was to get rid of all the sprues with spare bits from the Portuguese Infantry that I haven’t used. I just cannot bring myself to throw away anything that might be of use in a future, as yet, unimagined project, so like most modellers I have a fairly comprehensive ‘bits box’ or rather a collection of bits boxes. They actually date back to the start of my hobby in the 70’s. I kid you not! Here is a picture of one box:

my early bits box

My early bits box – spot the Almark Japanese Infantry figure..

The sharp eye’d amongst you will see crew members from the Airfix Dennis Fire Engine, Old Bill bus, the bits from an Airfix Highlander and some racing car crew, some of whom found life as converted snow speeder crew for a star wars diorama that I built. Part of the fun when building from scratch or converting was to rake through the bits box in search of a piece that you knew would be just right if only you could find it. I decided that some sort of organisation was required. So my sophisticated solution was to put all the little bits into a plastic bag…

My first attempt at organisation - seperate out the small bits!

My first attempt at organisation – seperate out the small bits!

Even now, it’s fun to look through the heap. Oh look! There’s a frozen Han Solo from the Boba Fett ship that I built. Clearly, there must be a better way. As I re started historical war gaming, I needed a new system for spares. So I treated myself to a set of mini drawers – I now had the height of sophistication in bits boxes. A separate drawer for Dark ages, a drawer for Napoleonic Heads, a drawer for right arms – you get the picture.

The New Bits system!

The New Bits system!

However, there is still a slight problem. Never mind the space that the drawers started to take up, I have to remember what’s in each drawer and finding the right arm (literally!) is still a faff! And so, I now introduce my latest innovation in the world of bits boxes!

Zip lock bags and post it note technology!

Zip lock bags and post it note technology!

Oh yes, zip lock bags and post it notes are some of my favourite stationery essentials, so why not combine the two and use them to catalogue the spare bits as I cut them from the sprue. As you can see, the hand writing is a bit dodgy, as is the spelling – I meant ‘Barretina’ – but once they are placed in a card index box, I will always be able to locate the bit that I want…..

And so back to the Portuguese. The regiment is taking shape and here is just a quick preview:

23rd Ameida Regiment take shape.

23rd Ameida Regiment take shape.

As you can see, I have included a couple of British Officers as part of the command, which I think adds a bit of ‘flavour’ to the regiment and is a fair reflection of the composition of the Portuguese Army in the late Peninsular period. Once the basing is complete, I’ll post some better pictures of the whole regiment. In the meantime I’m off to write some Christmas cards. Bah! Humbug!

 

Are you Napoleon or Wellington?

Before anyone gets too excited, it’s worth pointing out that the question is aimed at Black Powder players and is somewhat rhetorical. The question arose from my last battle at the White Hart with Duncan. A battle that I lost and as is often the case, as I drove home, I reflected on the turning points of the engagement. Of course the dice could have been kinder but that is often the first thought when you lose a battle. You remember all those failed saves, poor rolls to hit, command rolls that failed and of course the dice imposed blunders.

Sir Sydney Ruff- Diamond watches on as Private James Riddles rebukes the French!

Sir Sydney Ruff- Diamond watches on as Private James Riddles rebukes the French!

However, there was a moment when I recognised that some of my frustration should have been reserved for the way in which I had been managing my army, in particular the use of my Commander, Sir Sydney Ruff-Diamond.

The battle between Duncan and I was a pretty standard club game, although Duncan had chosen to make one of his Brigades reflective of a French Avant Garde brigade. It was composed of four small light battalions, three small light cavalry regiments and two horse artillery guns. A strange mix to be sure and not from the standard Black powder order of battle. To add to the unfamiliar line up, another brigade was composed of ‘large’ units of Polish Battalions, with a further brigade of French Infantry, supported by Heavy cavalry. I was fielding my usual British force of 3 Brigades of infantry in the centre, supported by a brigade of Light Cavalry on the left and a brigade of Heavies on the right.

The battle at first followed my usual plan. Form a decent defensive line, hold the flanks with the cavalry, threatening when there was an opportunity and break the opposition with fire power. There was a problem though. At first the French Avant Garde brigade (or light Brigade), was just a nuisance, picking away at my superior numbers. It was also somewhat cumbersome in that with so many units to move, brigade orders were not suitable and inevitably a failed order resulted in many of the units not moving.

Napoleon takes charge!

Napoleon takes charge!

That changed when Duncan committed his commander in chief ( Napoleon no less) to the far flank of his army to support the brigadier. With two attempts at command rolls, the brigade stated to function even more effectively. Not only were the units moving as they should but there were two commanders on the spot to rally shaken units and send them back into battle again.

Meanwhile, the British continued with the time honoured method of leaving the army commander some where in the middle of the battlefield just in case he was needed to move a unit. Of course the problem being, the further you are from your units, the more likely you are to suffer a penalty on your command roll and fail. By not committing my Commander he became ineffective, whereas Napoleon was right on the spot, controlling the critical thrust of the French attack.

Polish Artillery supported by infantry

Polish Artillery supported by infantry

The outcome of the battle was resting on either flank. To my left, I was losing to the French Light Brigade who were gaining territory and gradually shaking more units than was healthy. To my right, I was enjoying a certain amount of success,  although in driving back the large units of Polish Infantry I was again taking casualties. Things came to a head when my right flank failed to sort itself out from repelling the Polish and began to fall back. Had Sir Sydney been on hand, he may have been able to rally a unit or order a spare battalion to plug the gap. He was however,  sitting serenely in the centre, just in case he was needed…

The balance tilted in favour of the French and it was Napoleon himself who was on hand to observe the final casualties forcing the British from the table!

So in future, I will remember that the Commander figure of my army is not just there as decoration. He needs to be near to the critical action to support the brigadier should things not work out as planned.

As we all know, at Waterloo, it was Wellington who was the ‘hands on’ General, riding up and down the Allied Lines all day, bolstering his troops where necessary. On the other hand, it was Napoleon that was ‘hands off’ delegating control of the Battle to his Marshals. Perhaps in future, Sir Sydney will be more like Wellington!

 

The Battle of the White Hart 1815

Well actually it was nearly half past six (1830) by the time we had laid out the table and decided who was battling who. As it was some six weeks since my last wargame, I was very much looking forward to a game of Black Powder and a chance to deploy my troops on the table. My opponent, Keith Tait, was fielding a force of Austrians against my usual force of British. Neither of us was particularly concerned about points and as we each had the same sized  Really Useful troop boxes, we decide to just put everything on the table and commence battle. As far as deployment went, we just got on with laying out the troops as they came out of the boxes without worrying too much about what went where in relation to each other. If that all sounds a bit too casual for some, I can assure you that sometimes the best wargames can come from the worst preparation. This Battle was a case in point. As I had low expectations of the outcome I didn’t actually take any photos of the game as it unfolded so you will have to use your imagination as to how the battle looked. Fortunately, I can include some pictures of the troops involved on my army and I have attempted to draw a simple map showing the general deployment of the troops.

deployment

The map above shows the deployment with the Austrians at the top of the page, with the light blue depicting light cavalry, dark blue the heavy cavalry and the grey blocks are the infantry brigades. The British are deployed at the bottom of the page, but in this case, the red blocks are the infantry brigades. The green ovals represent woods on the battlefield.

The Austrians had superiority in cavalry, with two additional regiments and had decided that their plan would be to break through the British left flank threatening the rest of the line. In the meantime the two centre brigades of infantry would advance to engage the British centre whilst the largest Austrian brigade would secure the right flank, preventing the British Infantry brigade and cavalry from threatening.

The British plan was simply to hold the Austrian cavalry as best that they could with 4 regiments of lights facing a total of 8 regiments of Austrians. In the centre, the two infantry brigades would secure a defensive line between the two woods, with the final Brigade and heavy cavalry , holding the right flank and attempting to break the Austrians here.

Two problems arose for the Austrians. Despite their numerical superiority in cavalry, they were unable to bring their numbers to bear to any great effect and by committing both brigades of cavalry they simply got in each others way. Even worse, the heavies failed to charge home leaving themselves exposed to the british infantry and artillery fire, resulting in heavy casualties for one of the regiments, which was to break and retire from the battlefield.

The british hussars charge!

The british hussars charge!

The British Cavalry were able to beat off the Austrian Light Cavalry and for once, held their discipline, regrouping to face the next charge.

In the centre, the British infantry were able to form their defensive line but a blunder fractured the left hand brigade as two battalions mistakenly moved to the left of the woods and formed square. In the event, this worked well for the British as they were able to constrict the space preventing the Austrian cavalry from maneuvering and protecting the flank of the remaining battalions. In addition, a small detachment of 95th Rifles were able to take up position in the woods to give covering fire and further harass the Austrians. Seeing that the centre needed reinforcing, the British brigade on the right flank moved across to the centre, effectively conceding this flank to the Austrians. However, the two regiments of British Heavy cavalry were able to charge the opposing Austrian infantry, forcing two battalions into square and pushing the remaining infantry further to the right, relieving the pressure on the centre. The two centre Austrian brigades pushed forwards regardless and the battle began to reach it’s climax.

Battle situation at half time!

Battle situation at half time!

With the Austrian Cavalry snarled up on the left Flank and the Austrian infantry brigade held up on the right flank, the decisive fight would take place in the centre. Initially, the British fire power stopped the Austrians in their tracks. The British first fire was extremely effective, causing numerous casualties and disordering many of the Austrian battalions attack. Even worse for the Austrians, the large brigade out on the right simply refused to move and remained pinned by the British cavalry and a failure to pass command rolls. Despite this, the next round of combat saw the British fail to inflict any further damage to the Austrian centre and at last the Austrians were able to charge home. The outcome remained in the balance.

Btish fire superiority proves effective!

British fire superiority proves effective!

The Austrians smashed into the British lines and were able to break through, breaking one British battalion and pushing back the rest of the brigade. The cost to the Austrians was to lose two of their own battalions and to take further casualties. Even as the Austrian Infantry broke through, on the left, their heavy cavalry had accumulated sufficient casualties to shake the whole brigade and to the Austrian armies dismay, they withdrew from combat. On the right flank the Austrian General was becoming increasingly frustrated with his Infantry, who, despite all attempts, refused to move to support the centre and continued to be harried by the British heavy cavalry.

The Blues are not for moving.

The Blues harry the Austrian Infantry!

The Austrian success in the centre was short lived. Despite being pushed back and losing a further battalion, the British had inflicted sufficient casualties on the Austrians to break the Infantry. Both sides brigades were fragmented but it was the British who had sufficient reserves to recover and reassert their dominance in the centre.

The Austrians break through but are fragmented. They are nice easy targets!

The Austrians break through but are fragmented. They are nice easy targets!

The Centre of the Austrian army had lost all impetus and was picked off battalion by battalion until the two brigades broke. This was effectively the end of the Austrian army, with three of the five brigades now broken. Victory for the British! For once, the British Cavalry had kept it’s discipline, holding both flanks whilst the infantry used the superior fire discipline to beat off the opposition. No doubt the Austrian Brigadier in command of the right will have questions to answer as to why he failed to support the centre!

95th rifles were a thorn in the Austrians flank throughout the battle!

95th rifles were a thorn in the Austrians flank throughout the battle!

A most enjoyable battle for me, particularly as I had such low expectations, having been away from the wargames table for some time. Once again, I am convinced that Black Powder, whilst not the most accurate representation of Napoleonic warfare, is certainly one of the most ‘playable’ games that I have come across and as far as an evening club game, I think that you would be hard pressed to find a better rules set.

 

Painting War

001

Marvellous! Just as you finish a project ( my Irish Warband) along comes the ideal publication that would have helped get an even better result. I’m talking about the release of the latest magazine in the Painting War series, ‘Dark Ages’. If you haven’t come across this series before, then I think that you are missing out. Each magazine, or more accurately, bookazine, takes a particular subject and using a guest artist, shows you how to paint a series of models. They have previously covered WW2 German army, French Napoleonics, WW2 US and Japanese Forces, British Napoleonics, The Spanish Civil War, Feudal Japan and now the Dark Ages. You can see the range here:

Painting War Magazines

The Dark Ages Magazine is by Alberto Mateos. It starts with a general painting guide and some basic techniques before covering general subjects such as how to paint skin, hair, fabric (including tartan), Armour, shields, flags, horses, accessories and even terrain. All of these subjects are referenced against the colours the artist has used and have clear step by step instructions. That’s just the first half of the mag! In the second part, there are 39 tutorials showing you how to paint individual figures, practically all of which are taken from the Saga Warbands. Most of the figures used are from either the Gripping Beast or Crusader ranges but of course, the techniques are applicable to any suitable Dark Age model. An example page is shown below:

002

With so many practical examples of how to paint your Dark Age army, you really cant be lost for inspiration or ideas. There’s one other clever idea. A colour reference chart in the centre of the magazine. So if you want to know how to paint Lambs skin, turn to page 63, not sure how to paint Red hair, turn to page 70, Scottish tartan – Page 20 – you get the idea and it’s very useful. So it’s another title that I will be adding to my reference library and I thoroughly recommend it for yours. If you would like a copy, just click here:

Painting War – Dark Ages

Meanwhile, back at the work bench, the Portuguese are slowly coming along.

Portuguese on the workbench

Portuguese on the workbench

I am at stage 5 out of 8 in my batch painting process, with the red piping to complete before tidying up, and painting the details – brass plates, buttons etc.

Red Piping done. Brass & other details to complete

Red Piping done. Brass & other details to complete

I think that I will struggle to get both Battalions completed in November but given a good couple of sessions, these boys should be ready for basing next week.

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