After finishing my Crusader army for now, I decided to turn my attention back to my Samurai collection. The new Bill Hooks Redux book is finally in production and is due to be published later this year. Although the text is all written for the Samurai version of Bill Hooks, there will no doubt be a need for some pictures to illustrate the rules, so I wanted to give Dan, the editor, plenty of options, should he decide to use my figures and scenery.
In addition, I had agreed to put on a Samurai Demo game at the Battlefront show in Middlesbrough, the date being 29th November. Rather than wait until the last minute, I thought it would be sensible to get everything done in advance and as well as having all the figures, I would upgrade and add to my scenery collection. As if these weren’t good enough reasons to turn my attention back to Samurai, I still had plenty of models in my lead pile that needed finishing. A good push would see these done once and for all!
The Rice Stores, new roofs on two, primed and ready for painting.
I started with the scenery. I had three Rice grain stores that had been assembled. Two were the standard Sarissa Precision Models, one was a scratch built copy, built by my friend Pete Harris. They were originally built to be used in our Test of Honour games but had been languishing in a crate under my desk.
Rice Stores, painting finished
I really like the Sarissa buildings range. They are practical, easy to assemble and look great on a wargames table. Like all MDF kits, they can look a bit flat, so I tend to add a bit of detail to spruce them up a bit. For me. it’s a similar process to adding extra cheese and topping to a shop bought pizza! It looks better, tastes better and its finished to your personal preference. In the case on the rice stores, I initially just added some tiling to the roofs.
Basing in progress
I then proceeded to paint them, using my standard recipe for wood. I started with Flat Brown, then dry brushed with successive coats of Earth Brown, Orange Brown and then Yellow Ochre. The roof’s were painted grey and highlighted accordingly with the top painted red. I then added a bit of weathering to the legs and the roof of one of the stores. I wasn’t quite content with the result, so I left the other two for now. Otherwise I was reasonably happy, although I felt that something wasn’t quite right. The stores looked as though they were disconnected from the wargames table. The answer came to me as I was working on the next building, the Watermill. They needed basing!
Rice Store based and ready for detailingThe Watermill built and primed
Having finished the Rice Stores, I turned my attention to the next kit, the Watermill. Another Sarissa Precision kit, it is straight forward to assemble and as long as you follow the instructions, there shouldn’t be any problems. I left the kit in three subassemblies to make painting and finishing easier. I also added some extra detail. The tiled roof being the most obvious but I also added some balsa lathes to the upper part of the mill to give it a bit more depth around the ‘plasterwork.
Painting is well underway and the three section are yet to be joined together
I primed the building with spray cans, using masking tape to protect the two different colours. Once the painting was finished – again a question of using dry bry techniques to bring out the detail, although I did take the time to paint the lines between the stones a lighter grey. As an aside, the MDF takes paint very well and the laser etched detail will not be covered by anything but the thickest of coats.
The watermill reassembled with the painting finished and based on a terrain tile.
Once the painting was finished I based the building on a Sarissa Precision terrain tile. I am very much a fan of these tiles as they will interlock enabling you to build a village or simply add extra terrain next to your buildings should you wish to. Some how mounting the building on it’s own base seems to make the whole thing ‘sit’ better on the wargames table,
The base is then detailed with scatter, tufts and plants.The view from the frontSide view.
With the watermill completed, the next building on the workbench is the Elders house, again from Sarissa. I’ve just assembled it for now but will start to detail and paint it in the coming week.
The Elders house ready for detailing and painting
The final picture shows the village coming together. No doubt I will add a few more buildings going forward – once the elders house is finished, I have a temple bell to build.
As promised, here is my second blog article on my Turcopole units. My plan was to make and paint two units of six Turcopoles to act as mounted skirmishers for my Crusader army. I had carried out some initial research using the books that I had in my collection and the usual internet sources at my disposal, Google search, Pinterest and Wikipedia to name but three.
The second batch of four riders in progress
However, I decided to use AI, namely CHATGPT to see if I could find out more and to perhaps help with colours and shield designs. I’ve copied in full, the answers that I received as I was so impressed with the depth and detail of the answers that I received. Note that any pictures that you see are of my finished models. I hope that the information is useful to other modellers. Here we go:
Four finished Turcoploes – bases still to complete
Who were the Turcopoles?
The word comes from the Greek tourkopouloi (“sons of Turks”), although by the 12th century it had become more of a military term than an ethnic one. They could include:
Occasionally westerners trained to fight in the local style
They served as light cavalry, acting as:
mounted archers
scouts
skirmishers
raiders
escorts
Unlike heavily armoured Frankish knights, they specialised in speed and flexibility. They were absolutely essential to the armies of the Kingdom of Jerusalem, Antioch and Tripoli because Frankish cavalry simply couldn’t match Seljuk or Ayyubid horse archers in mobility.
The next four riders from the rear – I’ve been lazy and there are two shields without a design on them
What did they wear?
This is the tricky part for painters.
There was no standard uniform.
They generally dressed much more like the local Muslim cavalry than like European crusaders.
Clothing
Typical clothing would include:
long-sleeved linen or wool tunic
loose trousers rather than tight European hose
leather belt or sash
riding boots or soft leather shoes
Colours could be almost anything:
cream
tan
light blue
dark blue
green
brick red
ochre
brown
The Levant was far more colourful than the grey-and-brown stereotype often seen in films.
Armour
Usually fairly light.
A Turcopole might wear:
quilted gambeson (aketon)
padded coat
occasionally a short mail shirt
sometimes lamellar or scale armour if wealthier
Many probably had little more than a padded coat.
Helmets
Most commonly:
simple conical steel helmet
nasal helmet
occasionally a pointed eastern-style helmet
A cloth turban could be wrapped around the helmet, as was common in the Near East.
Some poorer men may simply have worn a padded cap.
Weapons
Almost always:
composite bow
quiver at the hip
light lance or spear
sword or curved sabre
sometimes a mace
The bow was their primary weapon.
Shields
Small to medium shields.
Often:
round shield
almond-shaped kite shield
eastern oval shield
Decoration could be very varied.
Unlike Templars or Hospitallers, they weren’t all carrying identical heraldry.
Did they wear crosses?
This depends on whom they served.
Kingdom of Jerusalem
Probably not prominently.
Most would simply look like local cavalry.
Templars
The Turcopoles attached to the Templars were not brother knights.
They did not wear the famous white mantle with the red cross.
They may have had a small cross on a surcoat or shield, but nothing approaching the iconic knightly appearance.
Hospitallers
Similarly, they did not wear the black robe with white cross associated with Hospitaller brothers.
Horses
Their horses were another distinctive feature.
Rather than the huge destriers of western knights, Turcopoles rode:
Arab horses
Turkoman horses
local Syrian breeds
These were:
smaller
faster
more agile
usually without heavy barding
Painting inspiration
If you’re aiming for historical accuracy, think of them as Christian Syrian horse archers, not miniature Templars.
A good palette would be:
Item
Suggested colours
Tunics
Sand, cream, pale blue, olive, russet
Trousers
Brown, grey, faded green
Quilted armour
Buff, tan, dusty red
Helmet
Iron with brass trim
Turban
White, cream, pale yellow, blue
Leather
Medium brown
Bow
Dark wood
Horse tack
Brown leather with simple coloured cloth
Avoid making every figure match. One of the defining features of Turcopoles is that they were locally recruited auxiliaries, so a mix of clothing colours and equipment looks both more realistic and more visually interesting.
The final four riders in progress. Note that two will be standard bearers
For hobby references, the illustrations by military historian David Nicolle (particularly in the Osprey Crusades series) are among the most widely respected reconstructions. They depict Turcopoles as lightly armoured Levantine cavalry with a blend of Byzantine, Syrian and Turkic influences, which aligns well with the surviving written evidence.
I also asked about the shield designs – this is the AI answer.
For model Turcopoles, you have quite a bit of historical flexibility because they were not a uniform corps. Turcopoles were locally recruited light cavalry and mounted archers serving the Crusader states, and their equipment reflected a mix of Byzantine, Islamic, Armenian, and Western influences.
For shields, these are all plausible choices:
Round shields (most authentic for many Turcopoles)
Diameter of about 45–70 cm.
Leather-covered wood with a metal boss or none.
Plain colours such as red, ochre, green, black, or white.
Simple painted borders or concentric rings.
Small kite shields
More Western influence, especially if serving alongside Frankish knights.
Shorter than the classic Norman kite shield.
Often painted in a single colour.
Almond or oval shields
Common in Byzantine and eastern military art.
Suitable for mounted archers.
The last four models are finished with their standards showing that they are serving with the Templars
Suitable decoration
Turcopoles generally would not have displayed elaborate European heraldry, especially in the 12th century. Better options include:
Solid colours.
A contrasting border.
Concentric circles.
Simple crosses if attached to a military order.
Geometric motifs inspired by Byzantine or Islamic art.
Eight-pointed stars or rosettes.
Stylised vines or knotwork.
If serving a military order
The rear of the group showing the shields and Banners – by Warflag
If your Turcopoles are attached to a specific order, you can include restrained references:
Knights Templar: white shield with a red cross, or a plain red shield for sergeants. Turcopoles often had simpler equipment, so a small red cross on a plain shield is believable.
Knights Hospitaller: black or red shield with a white cross, depending on period.
Teutonic Order (late 12th/13th century): white shield with a black cross.
Colours that work well
Dark red
Ox-blood
Ochre/yellow
Olive green
Dark blue
White or cream
Natural leather brown
Avoid
Late medieval quartered heraldry.
Elaborate coats of arms on every shield.
Bright fantasy Celtic designs.
Large animal charges unless depicting a specific noble’s retinue.
For a unit of 20–30 models, I’d mix the shields to give an irregular, frontier feel:
40% plain leather or wood.
30% single-colour painted shields.
20% simple crosses.
10% geometric or Byzantine-inspired patterns.
That combination captures the diverse appearance that Turcopoles likely had while still looking coherent on the tabletop. For 1187, serving alongside the Knights Templar after the disaster at Hattin, your Turcopoles would have been indispensable as scouts, skirmishers, mounted archers, and pursuit troops. They were not full brothers of the Order, so they would almost certainly have looked distinct from the white-cloaked knights.
I’d aim for an appearance that is 80% Eastern and 20% Frankish.
All twelve Turcoples together
Shield shapes
I’d mix them across the unit:
60% round shields (my first choice)
30% small almond or oval shields
10% short kite shields
This gives the impression of locally recruited horsemen rather than uniform Western cavalry.
Another view of the Unit
Shield colours
Stick to muted colours rather than bright heraldic schemes:
Oxblood red
Dark green
Ochre
Cream
Dark blue
Natural leather brown
Weather them heavily with scratches and dust.
Designs I’d use
1. Plain painted shields (40%)
Solid red
Solid green
Solid ochre
Plain leather
These are probably the most historically convincing.
2. Simple crosses (25%) Since they serve the Templars, add a small red cross rather than a huge heraldic one.
Examples:
Red shield with a small white cross.
White shield with a small red cross.
Brown shield with a red cross painted rather crudely.
Think of these as equipment marked for service rather than personal heraldry.
3. Byzantine-inspired designs (20%) Simple patterns such as:
Concentric circles
White border around a coloured field
Eight-pointed star
Four dots around a central boss
Cross within a circle
These fit the eastern Mediterranean very well.
4. Islamic geometric influence (15%) Nothing too elaborate, just:
Diamonds
Zig-zag bands
Chevron borders
Interlocking triangles
These would reflect local artistic traditions without making them look like Muslim troops.
What I’d avoid
I wouldn’t give them:
Lions
Eagles
Personal coats of arms
Quartered heraldry
Bright quartered red-and-white designs
Those belong to Western knights rather than Turcopoles.
Shields and Banners
My favourite mix for a unit of 12
3 plain leather shields
2 oxblood red
2 ochre
2 green
2 with a small Templar red cross
1 with concentric rings
The result looks varied but still cohesive beside a Templar force.
One detail that really helps tie them to the Templars is to paint a small red pennon on their lances or a red cross on a shield strap or horse cloth, rather than giving every shield a large cross. That suggests men in Templar service while preserving their identity as locally equipped auxiliaries.
For the period around 1187, that’s the balance I’d choose for a force that is both historically grounded and visually striking on the tabletop.
Another view of the shields
I hope that the information and pictures are helpful to anyone else who is thinking of painting some of these Light Cavalry.
Happy Modelling!
This website uses cookies to improve your experience. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish.AcceptRead More
Privacy & Cookies Policy
Privacy Overview
This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are as essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience.
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.